Gonge PEAT comes from nondo, the tiny brewery of chef and doburoku maker Yotaro Sasaki at his auberge Tono-ya Yo in Tono, Iwate. The Gonge series uses the whole rice harvest, bran included, from Sasaki's own Tono No. 1 rice grown without pesticides or fertilizer. Because rice bran goes into the mash, Japanese law classes it as an "other brewed" beverage rather than sake.

For PEAT the bran is smoked and roasted over rice straw, and the mash ferments for around six months. The result is cloudy, unpasteurized and lightly sparkling, with a smoky, faintly green aroma that recalls mezcal and bright acidity. Keep refrigerated and open carefully.