Hoshiko is an umeshu made by Plum Foods in Wakayama, Japan's ume heartland. Its recipe comes from bartender Danny Aikawa, who began developing it in 1979 and first released it in 2005. One batch is made each year after the harvest: the fruit steeps for several months with a closely guarded blend of herbs and spices, then the ume are removed and the liqueur is sweetened to balance their tartness.

The result is amber, sweet and tart, with a gentle spiced depth. Serve it chilled, over ice, topped with soda, or as an after-dinner sipper.